6 Things to do in Belgrade, Serbia from Skadarlija to the Belgrade Fortress
To be honest, Serbia was never a place that was high on my travel bucket list. I've always been open to exploring more of Eastern Europe, especially since I LOVE Poland, but I thought I would make my way to Turkey or Hungary before I ended up in Serbia. But when you have a fiancée who is Serbian, who has never been to his home country before, there's no reason for you not to say yes to an unexpected Serbian adventure!
Like most of our European trips, the schedule was a whirlwind. We spent one day in Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, before continuing onto Albania for a friend's wedding. The city proved to be one of the most unusual I've ever seen in Europe simply because so much of the post-war structures still stand. Driving from the airport, Belgrade isn't exactly pretty. Dilapidated buildings and sidewalks line the highway into the center of town, and block after block of dismal grey apartment buildings tower up on either side. This was not the eclectic Eastern Europe I had expected from traveling throughout Poland or the Czech Republic. But little did I know, I would soon find it. Belgrade may be a bit of culture shock for some, but make sure you cut the city some slack. The Kosovo War and NATO bombings of the town took place in 1999...so not that long ago. Unlike so many other cities that have thrived since the last time they saw war, Belgrade's tumultuous past is still relatively fresh.
Despite these more recent hardships, there's been a lot of work to transform the city into a unique tourist destination. Led by the Serbian government, the Belgrade Waterfront is a massive (but also controversial among residents) urban renewal project on the Sava River. We didn't have a chance to visit this area on our journey, but it's an option if you want a very modern Belgrade experience complete with dining, shopping, and festivals.
We decided to spend our time in the more celebrated parts of the city, all easily accessible on foot. It didn't help that it downpoured the WHOLE DAY we were in town. However, I'll give Belgrade some serious credit: the town is vibrant, and I quickly learned not to pass judgements based on what we saw near the airport. There are murals and street art everywhere, adding color to your stroll even if you’re running from one awning to another to avoid the rain. We soon realized that there are so many things to do in Belgrade, we had to really focus on the top spots to hit during our stay.
Check Out the Trendy Neighborhood of Skadarlija
One of our top things to do in Belgrade was wandering through the neighborhood of Skadarlija. This colorful, artsy district, known as the "Bohemian Quarter," is historically home to many of those who have a more romantic view of life: painters, writers, and other free-spirited artists have flocked to the cobblestone streets lined with flowers and blooming trees for years. Add to that the fact that it's a pedestrian-only zone, and you have an experience far different from the more metro vibe of Downtown Belgrade which is only a few blocks away. Even with the dreary weather we were stuck with, Skadarlija was a treat for my camera. We crisscrossed the streets to take in the rainbow of buildings home to cafes and small shops.
Another fun part about Skadarlija is the live music. Not only do you have multiple opportunities to be serenaded in the restaurants by violinists and guitarists but you may be lucky enough to experience live music in the streets. As we strolled the paths in the evening, we ran into a group dressed up in old-time bohemian garb, playing accordions and flutes and singing in the streets. A perfect addition to the ambiance of the evening.
Eat All the Meat You Can While in Belgrade and Skadarjila
Skadarjila is also home to a lot of delicious restaurants serving up classic Serbian and Balkan dishes. After looking at menu after menu, we couldn't decide which colorful open-air patio to have lunch on, so we returned to the area again for dinner to try another spot. When it comes to food, Serbia is ALL ABOUT THE MEAT. Opt for a combo platter if available to try a larger selection of the local delicacies. Beware, we found most of the portions we were served to be unexpectedly large (even compared to our U.S. standards lol) so be prepared to fill your stomachs. Ćevapi is an iconic dish (and my fiancée's fav) consisting of ground meat, often lamb or veal, and onions molded into a sausage. You’ll usually receive between 5-10 pieces which are served with flatbread similar to pita, and often a cheese or roasted red pepper relish, known as Ajvar, to spread on top. Other sausages and meatball varieties are also standard and the fish I tried was amazing, flavored with fresh lemon and garlic. Burek is another delicious item to try. Common across many Eastern European cultures, Burek is a thick pastry filled with meat, cheese or spinach , and is similar to the more well-known Greek Spanakopita. Not only will you eat your weight in meat, but be prepared for consistent onion-breath. Onions are prominent in almost every dish in Serbia and usually you'll also be given a side of raw onions just in case you feel the need to add more. The flavor punch in all the food, paired with the common spice of paprika is totally worth it but breath mints are a must.
After so much eating, there's no better way to end your meal than with a shot (or glass if you’re daring) of Rakija. This strong fruit spirit, which is deceivingly clear as water, may knock you off your feet but provides you with an authentic Serbian experience, as it’s been the national drink of Serbia for centuries. If you like the taste, you can experience all the different versions and varieties as you travel through all the countries in the Balkans. Many restaurants even offer you a small glass on the house as this is a typical way to greet guests.
Although outside of Skadarlija, I also recommend checking out the restaurant Manufactura when considering things to do in Belgrade. Even if you arrive when they’re closed (like we did), the ceiling of red umbrellas covering their dining patio is literally the most IG-worthy spot in the city, and is a place you might recognize from other travel bloggers on social media. If you want to eat there as well, you’ll be able to dine on food from local Serbian farms. It is one of the most recommended restaurants by actually Serbians who live in Belgrade.
Walk to the Republican Square of Belgrade
A ten-minute walk from Skadarlija is the Republican Square, the central square within Belgrade that is home to the National Museum and National Theatre. You’ll no doubt also come across the Prince Mihailo Monument in the center of the square. Erected in 1882, the statue depicts the man on his horse who was also known as the “Prince of Serbia” and ruled on and off from 1839-1868. The Republican Square is also where many of the guided tours of town begin so you may quickly find this to be a centralized location you visit again and again.
Enjoy One of the Most Unique Parts of Serbia: Popcorn
As you walk away from the Square, you’ll find yourself in the heart of downtown Belgrade, complete with all the big name stores and shops you’d expect from any other European city. One of my favorite things about Belgrade are the food carts that are unlike any I’ve seen before. While I’ve seen carts selling cheese in Poland, and other carts selling roasted chestnuts in Italy at Christmastime, I have never seen them selling one of my most favorite snacks: popcorn! Now let me pause and explain my love for popcorn. I literally can’t go to the movies without ordering some and I make popcorn multiple nights a week as a snack at home. So I cannot begin to explain the delight of getting a whiff of freshly popped popcorn, out of NOWHERE, as I was casually walking down a random street in Serbia. These popcorn carts are all over town and with the rambling nightlife and clubbing I’ve heard is such a part of Serbian culture, I couldn’t imagine a better late night snack! Who knew popcorn would end up being one of my favorite things to do in Belgrade!
Marvel at the Church of St. Sava
I’ve seen a lot of churches in Europe, and I’m sure you have too. Every town has their own special place of worship that also has become a can’t-miss stop for tourists. The Church of St. Sava is on another level. Not only is it the 4th largest Eastern Orthodox Church in the world but it is also one of the largest church buildings on the planet. In fact, much of the church, including the iconic central dome, was modeled after the Hagia Sophia. The exterior of the Church of St. Sava is primarily built from white marble with accents of 24-carat gold (talk about fancy!) with 49 different bells throughout the structure. This building is a vision to behold. The teal domes against all that white marble is stunning. The majority of my Belgrade photos were of this church because every angle is filled with gorgeous details.
The Church of St. Sava’s central area was under construction when we visited, so we could only explore the basement. It serves as a temporary prayer hall and will act as a crypt for Serbian patriarchs in the future. But HOLY MOLY who knew a church basement could be so beautiful! (nothing like the old worn-down basement of the church we attended when I was a kid). Let's take a moment to appreciate the amount of gold in this room. The light reflected off the gold pillars, gold murals, and gold chandeliers. It almost felt like the room was on fire, glowing from within. The frescos on the walls were also predominantly designed in gold and feature images of martyrs, saints, and scenes from the Bible.
End Your Day at the Belgrade Fortress
Located at the intersection of the Danube and Sava Rivers is the Kalemegdan Park, home to the Belgrade Fortress. This area is the perfect spot for a stroll outside and is the most popular tourist destination in Belgrade. The large park is filled with a variety of activities, from outdoor cafes, to professional tennis courts, to kid’s play areas and a zoo. However, the most memorable part is the Belgrade Fortress. With free admission (woohoo!) you can wander through the multiple levels of the fortress, with informational signage about its history along the way. This is where we learned the crazy fact that this was Belgrade’s oldest structure, dating back to 279 BC! The grounds are beautifully landscaped with perfectly coiffed bushes and trees that remind me of those in Paris and Versailles. The views of the nearby rivers aren’t bad either!
I wasn’t expecting much from my trip to Serbia but I was definitely surprised at all the things to do in Belgrade, even when only having one day to explore. It is unlike so many of the other more touristy destinations in Europe with some unique factors like the food, the popcorn stands (hello!) and the post-war vibe of the city. From the visually striking Church of St. Sava, to the adorable neighborhood of Skadarjila, to the massive Belgrade Fortress, we enjoyed every minute of it. I’d love to return (when it’s not raining) to see more more of the city and eat even more sausage. But in the meantime, I’ll live vicariously through my fiancée.